Switching power supplies will have a lot more electrical noise. You don’t see many linear power supplies these days, because they are physically large and generate a lot of waste heat. If you are going to use a bench type power supply, there are two basic types.Ī linear power supply will have very little electrical noise and will properly regulate itself over its entire load range, so small loads or no load isn’t a problem. Rick’s suggestion of a car battery on a charger is a pretty good one. Repair will get into a couple of different kinds of soldering, lug-crimping and other tools. That’s about it for testing and so forth. If the 0-2 amp range of a cheap multimeter isn’t enough, you can use any DC amp gauge (20-0-20 is a good range for most work, or 50-0-50 for heavier stuff) rigged up with some leads.Ī handful of clip leads, both light duty and heavier-duty, make it easy to hook stuff up for testing. The one you can get free from Harbor Freight Tools is fine.Ī DC ammeter that can read more than a few amps is a little tricky - they can be expensive. A fixed supply is good for most stuff an adjustable one can help nail down subtle problems and help replicate in-car conditions.Īn inexpensive multimeter. You can find them, either fixed or adjustable across the normal automotive range (about 9-15 volts), from almost any online seller of tools and electronic gear. A high-current 12V power supply with a protected output (to keep you from doing damage from shorts and overloads) is the first step.
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